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Safari Camp Stories: Tracking Leopards with Kaizer

What a stunning unexpected leopard sighting this week. It was Monday morning when we started the game drive, everyone was wearing warm clothes because it was a very cold morning. Ten minutes after we left the camp we picked very fresh female leopard tracks, it was promising that we could find her anytime soon because the tracks were promising that she might be very close. My tracker ( Glandstone ) was very happy to step down from his office ( tracker seat ) to start tracking the female leopard, we were excited to follow up on the fresh tracks. Our guests were excited to see what our tracking skills will achieve, I handed the rifle to my tracker to start tracking. It is a code of conduct in Garonga safari camp that trackers when they track any animal on foot must carry the rifle for the safety reason which is very important and good to do so. We furthermore engaged our guests by saying that we work as team meaning that all of us must open our eyes in searching for this lovely animal. Very interesting everyone was very optimistic to spot it first, we started to drive whilst Glandstone was on foot tracking. We tracked for roughly almost three hours, but we did not get it. I decide to offer the guests the tea, coffee because it was a right time for a drinks stop. I called Glandstone to come join us for drinks stop and he responded positive. We nearly gave up, but a magic happened whilst drinking coffee and tea. One of our guest took his binocular and it put on the face, we heard him saying a leopard is on the road heading towards us no one believed him. Also, I took my binocular to double confirm what he was saying, guess what? He was correct the leopard was coming towards us. We had to get into the vehicle immediately, everyone was excited to see the leopard. Leopard approached very close to twenty metres and started to realise that there is a vehicle In front, it was too late for it guests were enjoying the leopard for almost twenty minutes. Nothing beats the beauty of the Bush! Looking forward seeing you soon. Kaizer

Safari Camp Stories: One for the history books!

What a remarkable week!? I started game drives this week in an exciting mood knowing that its going be a bit of a challenge. Very interesting, is that I was allocated to our new outstanding  TENTED CAMP which we have been long  waiting for it to be opened. I was long waiting to make  history as the first guide to do game drives at MCH Private Tented Camp which is our new spectacular tented camp (Click Here to learn more about our new camp). Fortunately, we had an outstanding game drive this week whereby I was extremely  excited to see our territorial male lions after we were looking for them for couple of days. My guests were at the camp for three nights and were very interested in seeing our two dominant male lions, in their last morning game drive a magic happened just before closing. We were checking the boundary road whereby I believe that we might be fortunate to see tracks or the dominant male lions. Fortunately, we came across the fresh tracks of our two dominant male lions. The tracks showed that they were patrolling the boundary which was a good news to us. Territorial patrol is one of the interesting news to hear when it comes to our wildlife more specially if you are conducting game drive. I told the guests that they stand a chance to see a territorial fight because the tracks showed more male lions were running  up and down, that was a clear indication that there was a territorial dispute. We drove past the herds of impalas still on the boundary road I was still full of hope that we can find them fighting on the road. One of the guests said that Josia I do not see us finding them cause the impalas are relaxed, they show no sign of being scared, as he was talking we saw the younger one of the dominant male lions was right in front of us. He was lying down not far from the impalas, he was tired , badly wounded; the other, older male lion was hiding in the thicket. That was such an exciting sighting to me, tracking and finding them that was stunning, the guests were happy to see our tracking skills. Looking forward seeing you soon. Warmest regards. Josia.

Safari Camp Stories: Space, Time and a Safari for the Soul

My mother taught me that all good stories should start “Once upon a time, in a far away place…” and when I was curled up in bed listening to the stories that she wove around me, little did I imagine that one day that would be a fairly accurate way to reflect on my childhood! Years ago (or, once upon a time) when I was bustling round in my first decade which was spent in a, now, far away place, I remember thinking how incredibly slowly time moved. When one birthday finally came around the twelve months between it and the next one seemed infinite! Somehow as I have grown up time has accomplished a strange feat of speeding up with me. I feel like I have only recently started at Garonga but in June I will have been here for three years! Temporal mayhem at its best. Time is a commodity that humans value very highly. To give someone the gift of your time is often the most precious thing that we really have to offer. Yet time operates strangely here in the bush. I often tell my guests that nature teaches us patience. The animals don’t operate to our schedule (and seem to be pretty relaxed most of the time about complying with their own), and there is something wonderfully soothing about spending time in the company of an animal that is going about its business with no temporal pressure at all. These days we rarely take the opportunity to just be. We always seem to need to be doing something. Coming on safari takes away that need. It reminds us that just to sit and watch, or to sit and listen can be key moments of our day, indeed sometimes they can be inspirational moments in our lives. Never underestimate the power of a sunset on your soul. Taking the time to watch the day end has wonderful restorative properties. ©Nick Barrett With everything that has happened in the last 12 months time is something that I certainly do not take for granted. Every moment spent in the bush is a moment when something remarkable might be seen, and you never know what the future holds or when you might get the chance to see it again. I try to live every moment to the fullest and to appreciate the incredible privilege of being both a guardian of and a guide into nature. I was recently chatting with my brother in a similar vein and we got to reminiscing over his various visits to Garonga. Nick has been coming to visit since I started at Garonga and I asked him to share a few of his favourite moments from those visits. There is nothing quite as special as sharing something you love with family! It just so happens that some of his favourite images are from sightings that I like to think of as “soul food”. There are few things more relaxing than spending time with elephants (especially the bulls) or rhinos. These mega-herbivores have few demands on their time; food is usually plentiful and, aside from humans, once they are fully grown they have little to no real predators to worry about. The more time that you spend with them the more your eye is drawn to the smaller details. Something that always captivates me about both elephants and rhinos is the textures that they possess. At first glance they might appear similar, both large and grey but on a closer inspection an elephant’s skin contains deep, almost furrowed wrinkles, whilst a rhino’s skin is smoother somehow, more dimpled than truly wrinkled. Interestingly the differences are not just aesthetic, an elephant’s skin is far more sensitive than a rhino’s which is why you never see ox-peckers on an elephant’s back. On rhino’s my eye is drawn to the random clusters of softness that you can find when you look at them closely. There is something wonderful about seeing an animal that is so tough but that has tufts of hair on its tail tip and fluff lining the edges of its ears. As for elephants, with their size it is hard to know where to look first, but there is something about the contrast of their smooth ivory and heavily folded skin that draws the eye. Likewise their faces capture the attention – wide, sweeping planes, deep textured wrinkles and long elegant eyelashes. I find that time spent with either of these species is like a free therapy session, it helps to put our lives in context and soothes any rough edges. At Garonga we believe firmly in a balanced safari, mixing the wonders that are the big five with the smaller marvels that we find in the bush. A true safari for the soul incorporates time spent relaxing around the pool, enjoying a massage and getting to know the smaller denizens that we share this world with. [ Finally, there is something that as humans we always find captivating about a predator, perhaps they are a reminder of our own mortality, but whatever it is a sighting with them definitely gets the adrenaline pumping. Nick has always visited me in the South African summer and the contrast between the dappled coat patterns of leopards and cheetah and the lush vibrant greenery surrounding them never fails to bring a smile to my face. I truly love my job and whoever joins me on my vehicle, I take great pleasure and pride in introducing them to the wonders of our part of the world but I have treasured in a different way getting to share my passion and my life with my family when they visit and I hope to continue to do so for many years to come!

Elephants

Safari Camp Stories: Elephants taking a dip with Johnson

My name is Johnson and I am one of the guides at Garonga Safari Company. This month is my turn to write a blog. I choose to write a blog with these pictures of the elephants to share the story with you how we got them because it is not something I usually get to see. We were with guests and they were really wanted to see elephants. I and my tracker, Phineas, we planned to search for them at western side of our reserve where last they were seen. We drove almost one and half hours before we got the fresh tracks, we stopped and showed our guests the tracks and signs where the elephants were feeding. Elephants eat lots of different food but it is usually easy to see where they have been eating. Sometimes they eat the insides of the bark off of trees and drop large pieces of the outer bark on the ground. Other times they shake marula trees to get them to drop all of their fruits to the ground so they can eat them. A lot of the time they eat branches from trees, sometimes this means they push over big trees to get to them and other times they just drop the half eaten branches in the road for us.. Elephants showing off some of their varied feeding preferences. ©Johnson Ntimane The guests were very happy when we showed them the tracks, it meant that after all our work the elephants were close. We started to follow up on them for about 30 to 45 minutes and the tracks ended up leading us to one of our watering holes. With luck got them while they were still drinking water, wallowing and some of them were spraying over their body with water to cool down themselves. Our guests were very excited, when we found them, and they could see by naked eyes them swimming. We spent plus or minus 20 minutes on the sighting while they were still enjoying their bath and playing in the water. When they started to leave the dam, we also decided to continue with our drive. Is not always that we get to see the elephants swimming or wallowing in the water, I find that so special to me and my guests. After the heat of the day we were very lucky to get different age groups in the dam drinking water, wallowing and swimming.

Safari Camp Stories : The Antiheroes of the Bush

Humans are funny, we love to pick a side. There are certain creatures that we have decided to classify as “good” or desirable to see and spend time with; and others that we shun! Somehow hyenas and vultures inevitably seem to find themselves on the side of the “bush villains”. This is a designation that has always baffled me. If you have followed any of my previous blogs you will know that I have an incorrigible weakness for hyenas, and as far as vultures are concerned I just don’t understand the intensity of the dislike that is shown towards them, but today I want to give vultures their moment in the limelight. In the reserve there are four species of vultures that we get to see. The most commonly spotted are the white-backed vultures and the more reserved hooded vultures. If there is a large carcass then sometimes we are visited by the larger cape vultures and the truly bizarre looking lappet-faced vultures. Vultures can be seen as the aerial clean up crew of the bush (not a glamorous job to be sure but an essential one nonetheless) with each species specialised in their own role. For example white-backed and cape vultures have tongues with unique grooves and serrations that allow them to gain access to soft flesh that might not otherwise be accessible using just their beaks. The hooded vulture on the other hand has an easily identifiable long and narrow beak, which is ideal for separating meat from bones but not well adapted to tearing skin from carcasses. Fortunately, the lappett-faced vulture has a strong beak designed for just this! As they say team work makes the dream work. Vultures have incredibly strong digestive systems and contain various anti-bacterial agents in their guts that allow them to safely digest flesh no matter how rotten or rancid it might be. Indeed vultures are one of the few creatures that are capable of consuming anthrax and suffering no ill effects – pretty incredible stuff! When they actually reach a carcass typically the feeding style is swift. White-backed vultures can fill their crop between just 2 and 5 minutes of feeding! On the other hand the hooded vulture being outweighed and out gunned takes a different approach; these smaller vultures snatch a piece of meat and fly off to eat it out of the way of the melee. So far vultures are proving themselves to be pretty handy, they are carrying out work that is vital but generally unpopular. If we had no scavengers to clean up carcasses, then diseases could run riot through the wild playing havoc on animal populations. However, the question remains what uncanny sense do vultures use to find these carcasses that are in need of cleaning up? The answer is simple – their vision. Vultures have excellent eyesight. The white-backed vulture typically soars about 800m off of the ground on the thermal air currents scanning for food. The Rüppell’s vulture also occurs in South Africa (although has not yet been recorded on the reserve) and has been recorded flying at an eye watering height of 11,277m above sea level! At this height the oxygen levels are significantly lower than at sea level and these fascinating creatures are well adapted to cope with this. They have a special type of haemoglobin that maximises their intake of oxygen and all vultures have an intense layer of downy feathers to allow them to cope with the frigid temperatures of their high elevation flights! As if overcoming these difficulties wasn’t enough the target that the vultures are scanning for from such great heights is a stationary target – nothing more than a corpse! The infamously sharp eyesight of vultures has lead to an unfortunate (and ironically unforeseen) side-effect. They are a highly prized as a source of “mutti” or local African magic. Due to their amazing vision local lore tells that parts of vultures can be used to see into the future. As a result these birds are often the target of local poachers. They are also the victims of poachers in another way. For a carcass the size of a rhino or an elephant several hundred vultures can congregate in their cleaning crew capacity. This is something of a beacon to rangers or anti-poaching teams and can lead to them finding a carcass and getting onto the trail of the poachers far sooner than they might otherwise have been able to do! In order to avoid this many poachers have taken to poisoning the carcass of whichever unfortunate animal they have poached. This can in turn lead to the deaths of hundred of vultures leading to these wonderful species becoming endangered with extinction. The IUCN redlist lists white-backed and hooded vultures as Critically Endangered with extinction, and the lappett-faced and cape vultures as Endangered with extinction. The population trend for all four species is decreasing. Whilst vultures might not be on everyone’s list of top animals to see if their numbers decline to the point where we can’t see them at all anymore the bush will be irrevocably changed for the worse. Perhaps the poor reputation of the vulture comes from their eerie flight patterns. When a large carcass is in an area, columns of circling vultures can be seen from far and wide. As incredible as these birds are it is hard not to see such columns and feel a sense of foreboding. They are an undeniable signal that something has lost its life, and after all no-one likes to think about death. However, I take great heart from the fact that in nature, nothing goes to waste. Vultures are part of the essential circle of life, helping to return the nutrients of the deceased to the soil where it will contribute to the lives of countless other animals in the years to come. Vultures do their work without complaint and quietly shoulder the burden of dislike that is constantly sent their way, meanwhile they are acting

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Garonga Ethos

Safari Camp

Game drives are at the heart of the Garonga experience, allowing you to encounter the Big 5 and other wildlife up close. Your stay will typically include a morning and afternoon game drive in our open-air Land Rovers. Two of our experienced and qualified guides will lead you through the bush, impressing you with their knowledge of the great variety of wildlife in the reserve. Their tracking skills are exceptional, giving them the advantage of locating animals based on their recent movements and enabling your safari sightings dreams to come true. On a morning game drive, as the animals are waking up, tuck into tea, coffee and snacks in the bush. Then, in the late afternoon, sip on a cocktail or glass of wine as the sun slowly dips below the horizon. In addition to the Big 5 (elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino), look out for cheetah, spotted hyena, black rhino, African wild dog, hippos, crocodiles, diverse plains animals and colourful birdlife.